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This page is no longer up to date, but here is a link to a cuttent tank plumbing diagram: click here.

Tank and Stand
150 Gallon tank (60x24x24), bought used with 2inch holes drilled in the overflow chambers,
4 inch perimeter bracing and a 10 inch glass center brace.
Stand and canopy are custom built oak, and cost way too much. But man, they make the tank look nice.

3 46 inch VHO actinic bulbs, 2 in front, 1 in back
4 250 DE PFO mini pendants, left and right 30 K Giesman bulbs, middle 2 20 K X bulb
1 36 inch NO magtinic as quasi moonlight - almost never used.
DIY 6 8 LED moonlight

Sump Returns
The sump return is split from 1.5 inch spa fles into two 1 inch Sea Swirls located in the front corners of the tank resting on DIY braces.

Rear of tank viewed through the old bathroom door from the bathroom
This has made it extremely convieninet to deal with the in house plumbing.
Picutred are the pce mainfold from the under house sump and pump, Magnum 330 feeding the above tank refuigum, and the mag 9.5 connect to a SCWD oscilator running outputs to the back two corners of the tank (both of these tank returns have anti siphon holes at the water level).
Magnum 330 has since been changed to a Mag 7 and SCWD running to the 'fuge and the front corners of the tank.

Under Tank Electrical
All the electrical is in the stand on the left sideon metal shelves to get it off the floor in case of a flood.

Durso Standpipe
1.5 inch Durso standpipe with a repair coupling to adjust height, and strainer.

Instead of drilling a hole in the top of the standpipe I put a 1 inch barbed elbow and ran
1 inch tubing to the space under the house. No noise at all.

Above tank refugium
It is a converted 10 gallon wet/dry filter that gravity feeds into the main tank. There are two 1 inch overflows,
above each other in case of cloging, that feed directly into the main tank
.There is also a floatswitch that will shut off the pump in case of an overflow.


The refugium has a modified Durso standpipe that reaches all the way to the
bottome of the refugium so the critters can be more easily transferred to the main tank.

Remote Sump and other Equipment
The 180 gallon sump and other stuff is located in a 40 inch space below the house, about 14 feet away laterly.
I cannot over recommend the benifits of a remote sump - no noise near the show tank, plenty of space for reef related crap,
spills are not an issue, help keep the tempature constant and it doesn't have to be kept 'in house clean'.

Euro Reef CS 8-2 skimmer with a remote collection container.

Not picutred: DIY Calicum reactor.

Return Pump
Ampmaster 3000. I know people have had problems with these, but it has worked well for me.
No seal problems, but once and a whileI clean out the impeller. Amazing what gets in there - I once found
6 hermit crab shells.The pump is wired so it can be turned off near the sump or near the tank,
and is connected to a floatswitch in the tank to prevent flooding in the house.

2 300 watt Won Brothers Titanium heaters, one in the sump and one in an overflow chamber.
4 inch fan on Ranco temp controler, probe is in the hood set to turn on the fan at 120 degrees.
300 pounds of Carib Sea Aragonite, most as a DSB in the main tank, about 60 pounds in two tubs in the sump.
About 180 pounds of various live rock.
Pinpoint Ph monitor.

I feed daily, shifting between frozen mysis, brine ,copopods, ocean plankton, live brine, Golden Pearls and Cyclop eeze.

I am also running an auto top off system with a DIY kalk reactor, hooked to a RO/DI resovoir, hooked to
a 150 gdp RO/DI unit by a float switch. Above is a diagram of the system.



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